Scrumptious eating + tons of enjoyable surprises at new Naples restaurant
Like Rene Magritte, the surrealist painter acclaimed for presenting acquainted objects and topics in unfamiliar methods, Kayla Pfeiffer ― Chef-Associate on the extremely new Bicyclette Cookshop that opened Nov. 15 in North Naples ― makes use of meals as her medium.
And whereas most dad and mom inform their kids to not play with meals, I think Pfeiffer’s might need inspired her to just do that.
Every dish boasts one intelligent shock after one other with out feeling twee or pretentious.
Caviar bumps paired with a pack of crunchy Bugles, the crispy corn snack?
Eliciting giggles and oohs of amazement at our desk, the genius presentation permits for completely sized scoops of roe and creme fraiche. The oeufs’ tin remembers basic rock album covers.
Sausage-y spuds riffing on Taco Bell’s “Tacky Fiesta Potatoes” are fried in chorizo oil then topped with chipotle hollandaise.
Bear in mind McDonald’s “two all beef patties, particular sauce, lettuce, cheese, pickles, onions on a sesame seed bun” jingle?
Right here, Pfeiffer swaps slices of ordinary American for gooey raclette and gruyere.
That particular sauce? Kimchi aioli.
Potato chips caught on oozing melted cheese add visible and crunch parts contrasting toothsome potato wedges.
Reinventing the wheel
The burger is a becoming tribute to enterprise accomplice Louie Mele, a previous President of McDonald’s (he began as a fry man) in Canada and Italy earlier than transferring to Southwest Florida. He additionally owns Naples Cyclery subsequent door and turned his adjoining Match and Gasoline café over to Pfeiffer, giving her carte blanche to reimagine it from menu to décor. The eating room’s ethereal area is a lighter palette accented with hints of an Hermès field, Pfeiffer’s favourite model.
Earlier government chef positions at The French, Bar Tulia at Mercato and PJK Neighborhood Chinese language, earned excessive crucial reward as she executed others’ ideas.
However with the inventive freedom to do her factor, this 27-year-old wunderkind appears to be having a ball with next-level takes on elevated consolation meals the place each intentional ingredient is well-thought-out. Cocktails, too, together with one dubbed “Flaquita’s Favourite,” a mezcal meets tequila nod to her “skinny woman” nickname.
Snacks, shareables & mains
Snacks and shareables are the identical on the lunch and dinner menus; two carryover primary programs embrace the burger and seared tuna.
Excluding the distinctive “bread and butter” plate’s wealthy slabs of butter with high-quality Spanish anchovy and heat crumpets (too many scrumptious energy for one particular person IMHO), solo diners will fare fairly properly with every thing on the menu.
Ordering oyster po’boy sliders? You received’t need or have to share.
Most gyros will be clunky, chunky and drippy, however not right here: this model is a shrinkwrap full of house-brined porchetta, chef’s favourite “chilly lower.” Regardless of a room-temperature preparation, the octopus has warmth, taking flavorful cues from Oaxaca plus hints of China by fusing Fresno chile, daikon and avocado. The chili crisp combines pumpkin, pumpkin seeds, pineapple and sesame.
Dinner is decadent. Anybody who cooks is aware of the great effort (and hazard to your fingertips) when prepping millefeuille potatoes. It accompanies roasted branzino.
Mele insisted on a Milanese, however Pfeiffer didn’t need to do Italian as she’s been there, carried out that. As a substitute, crisp hen schnitzel with brilliant arugula pesto adorned with watermelon radish fantastically suffices.
Save room for dessert. Flourless chocolate cake with salted whipped creme is to die for. A brand new addition is mushy serve swirled with Mele’s branded olive oil from his trip house in Italy, lately bottled in late October.
What to know earlier than you go
Whereas most JLB restaurant critiques are nameless, that’s not the case this time as I’ve interviewed each Mele and Pfeiffer for earlier tales.
Full disclosure: I attended a family and friends sneak peek and popped in throughout Pfeiffer’s menu analysis and improvement.
Closed for good:Collier County eating places that shuttered their doorways in 2023
As a substitute, take into account this your useful “what to anticipate” information if you go ― and it’s best to as quickly as doable. Finesse and enjoyable make this restaurant considerably totally different than the rest in Naples.
819 Vanderbilt Seaside Street at Pavilion, North Naples
Web site: bicyclettecookshop.com
Hours: Open day by day. Lunch is served 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; small plates from 2:30 to five p.m.; dinner 5 to 10 p.m.
Value: Snacks, $7 to $22; shareables, $13 to $23; lunch entrees, $15 to $34; dinner mains, $22 to $42
Additionally: Full bar, $14 youngsters menu, ample parking, solo eating, good for teams, wines BTG $12 to $25, craft cocktails, $16, 50somethings will love the soundtrack.